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HOPGOOD’S FOODLINER, Toronto, Ontario
Chef/owner: Geoff Hopgood
Website: hopgoodsfoodliner.com. Cuisine:East Coast.
Telephone: 416-533-2723. Twitter:@chefhopgood
2015 Rank: 45.
2014 Rank: 15. 2013 Rank: 30
Price Range: $10-$28 for entrees, many of them superb.
You Must Order: Noma chef Rene Redzepi called Hopgood’s snow crab ($28) from Cape Breton “one of the best mouthfuls I have eaten in North America.” That should be all the direction you need.
Need to Know … from slow food advocates David Kirkwood and Sarah Crawford: “Fun, casual, slightly irreverent on the plate and in the room, but with a serious view to procurement and preparation. Heavily Maritime influenced, the restaurant’s fish is sustainably sourced as are the organic vegetables, natural wines and craft beers. Good upbeat party vibe with expert, friendly, informal and attentive service.”
2014 Judge Janine Kennedy says: ”The menu is small and to the point. It’s also very creative with dishes like house-smoked mackerel served on homemade oatcakes (both Nova Scotian staples, but never, in my experience, served together, $10). The Halifax Donairs ($14) are the best I’ve tasted outside of Halifax — and are something I’ll be coming back for. Hopgood’s mother’s homemade crab dip recipe ($15) comes served with Triscuits. The dip is creamy, nicely herbed and irresistibly spreadable with lots of fresh crab meat folded in.”